Paris · Montmartre, 18th arrondissement · Free

Place du Tertre: Montmartre's Artists' Square

Portrait painters at their easels, café terraces under the plane trees and the last village square in Paris — the Place du Tertre is Montmartre distilled into a single cobbled square, two minutes from Sacré-Cœur.

By the AllTrips Editorial Team · September 28, 2026

Place du Tertre at a glance

Area: Montmartre, 18th arrondissement. Allow: 20–30 minutes for the square itself, longer with a portrait or a terrace stop. Entry: free, open at all hours. Nearby: Sacré-Cœur two minutes away, the Musée de Montmartre and Saint-Pierre church just around the corner.

The name gives the game away: a tertre is a small hill, and this little square sits near the top of the Montmartre hill, about 130 metres above sea level. It was the main square of the old village of Montmartre — and despite the crowds, it still feels like one.

From village square to artists' square

Until 1860 Montmartre was an independent commune outside Paris, and the Place du Tertre was its centre — the village's first town hall stood on the square. When the hill was annexed into Paris, the low rents and nightlife of the Butte drew painters instead: Renoir, Picasso, Utrillo and Modigliani all lived and worked within a few streets of here in the decades around 1900.

The painters never really left. What began as bohemian legend hardened into tradition, and today the square's painters are as much a fixture as the cobblestones. The City of Paris formalised the arrangement: the central plateau is divided into roughly 140 one-square-metre pitches, each shared by two artists on rotation, and every painter needs an official permit to work here.

The painters of the Place du Tertre

Portraitists, caricaturists and silhouettistes work shoulder to shoulder, most of them happy to be watched while they draw. A few practical notes: prices are set by each artist, so agree the cost before the sitting begins; a quick look at a portfolio is not a commitment; and the quality varies as much as the styles, so walk a full lap of the square before choosing.

If you want the square to yourself, come before about 10:00 in the morning, when the artists are setting up and the tour groups have not yet climbed the hill. Mid-afternoon in summer is the polar opposite — one of the most densely crowded spots in Paris.

Cafés and La Mère Catherine

The square is ringed by restaurant terraces, the most famous of them La Mère Catherine, founded in 1793 and one of the oldest eating houses in Paris. Local legend claims that Russian soldiers occupying Montmartre in 1814 drank here and shouted "bystro!" — "quickly!" — thereby inventing the word bistrot. Etymologists doubt the story, but it is too good for the square to give up.

Honest advice: the terraces are for the atmosphere, not the cuisine. Have a coffee or a glass of wine, watch the painters at work, and eat your main meal elsewhere in Montmartre — the streets down towards Abbesses are full of better-value options.

Guided tours and activities

The square itself needs no ticket, but Montmartre rewards context: a guided walk ties the Place du Tertre to the vineyard, the artists' studios and the cabarets downhill, and there are food tours and combined tickets for the neighbourhood's paid sights.

This Tiqets link is an affiliate link: AllTrips may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Entering the Place du Tertre is free.

Getting there

The handiest métro stations are Abbesses (line 12) and Anvers (line 2). From Anvers, ride the Montmartre funicular — or climb the stairs — up to Sacré-Cœur, then walk two minutes west. The little Montmartrobus winds up from Pigalle and stops near the square, which is the knee-friendly option. The square's recent renovation by the 18th arrondissement town hall also improved step-free access to the central plateau.

The Place du Tertre in photos

What is nearby?

Sacré-Cœur Basilica is a two-minute walk east, and just beside it stands Saint-Pierre de Montmartre, one of the oldest churches in Paris. A few minutes south, the Musée de Montmartre tells the neighbourhood's story in Renoir's former gardens, and the Clos Montmartre vineyard still produces wine on the hillside. Downhill in Pigalle, the Moulin Rouge marks the other end of the Montmartre story. See how it all fits together on our Paris attractions map.

Frequently asked questions

Is the Place du Tertre free to visit?

Yes. It is a public square in Montmartre, open at all hours and free to enter. You only pay if you buy a painting, sit for a portrait or stop at one of the café terraces.

How much does a portrait cost on the Place du Tertre?

Prices are set by each artist and vary with size, technique and the number of people in the portrait. Agree the price before the artist starts, and remember you are free to walk away — a quick sketch is not an obligation to buy.

When is the best time to visit the Place du Tertre?

Early morning, before about 10:00, when the square is quiet and the artists are setting up. From late morning to evening in high season it is one of the most crowded spots in Paris. Evenings are atmospheric once the day crowds thin out.

How do I get to the Place du Tertre?

The closest métro stations are Abbesses (line 12) and Anvers (line 2) — from Anvers you can take the Montmartre funicular or the stairs up to Sacré-Cœur and walk two minutes. The Montmartrobus, a small electric bus, winds up the hill and stops near the square.

Does the Tiqets link buy admission to the Place du Tertre?

No. The square needs no ticket. The link opens Tiqets' Montmartre listings for optional guided tours and paid activities in the neighbourhood; check the specific offer before booking.

Sources

• Mairie du 18e — Nouveaux aménagements place du Tertre (renovation and accessibility works)
• Musée de Montmartre — official site (neighbourhood history and Renoir gardens)

Reviewed September 2026. The square is free and always open; portrait prices and terrace menus are set by each artist and restaurant.