Pinecone Courtyard Guide (Cortile della Pigna)

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What it is

The Cortile della Pigna is the upper section of the vast Belvedere Courtyard complex begun by Donato Bramante for Julius II in the early sixteenth century. Its present enclosed form is not Bramante's original space preserved intact: the great courtyard was subdivided by later building, above all by the construction of the Library wing, leaving the three courtyards visitors see today.

It sits between the entrance area and the main gallery sequence, and is one of the museums' designated relaxation areas. Two-storey loggias line the sides; the colossal ancient bronze pinecone stands in the exedra at one end, with Pomodoro's bronze sphere in the open space.

Source: the Vatican Museums' page for the courtyard.

The Pinecone (Pigna)

A monumental Roman bronze roughly four metres high. It probably functioned as a fountain element in antiquity — the exact original location and use are debated rather than settled — and it was later displayed in the atrium of Old St Peter's, familiar enough in medieval Rome to be referenced in Dante. It was moved to the Vatican courtyard in the early seventeenth century, where it has stood ever since.

The bronze peacocks

The two bronze peacocks flanking the pinecone are copies. The ancient bronze originals, associated with the Mausoleum of Hadrian, are conserved indoors within the museum collections, away from the weather. This is a common point of confusion, and it runs the opposite way to what many guides claim.

The Sphere Within Sphere

Arnaldo Pomodoro's Sfera con Sfera is a large polished bronze — not gilded — whose fractured outer shell opens onto a machined inner core. It was designed with a rotating mechanism, but do not promise anyone it will be turning when you arrive; treat that as something to check on the day. Pomodoro made versions of the piece for the United Nations, Trinity College Dublin and other institutions; the Vatican's sits in the courtyard, framed by the surrounding loggias. Look for the way the polished surface holds the sky and the surrounding façades.

Why it works as a break

The Vatican Museums are kilometres of enclosed galleries, and the courtyard is officially listed as a relaxation area — which is the strongest practical reason to use it. Take five or ten minutes here before starting the long gallery sequence rather than pushing through and paying for it later.

It is not the only outdoor option: the Courtyard of the Cuirasses, the Courtyard of the Pinacoteca, the Square Garden and the Courtyard of the Carriages are also designated relaxation areas, and the Octagonal Court is open to the sky. Café and restroom locations change with the current visitor layout, so check the museum map you are given at entry.

Photo tips

• • The pinecone photographs well straight on, framed by the exedra behind it.
• • Overcast light is kinder to the polished bronze of the sphere than hard midday sun, though this is a preference rather than a rule.
• • Walk a full circle around the sphere — the reflection changes completely with the angle.
• • Access to upper loggias is not generally open to visitors, so plan for ground-level compositions.
• • Photography without flash is permitted here, as elsewhere outside the Sistine Chapel.

Frequently Asked Questions

How big is the pinecone?

Are the bronze peacocks originals?

What is the large bronze sphere?

Is the courtyard a required stop?

Is the Pinecone Courtyard the only outdoor space?

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